If you’ve ever tried your hand at sewing with denim, you know that this fabric can be a bit tricky. Denim is durable, heavy, and sometimes stubborn, but with the right approach, you can turn it into beautiful, long-lasting pieces. Whether you’re creating a pair of jeans, a jacket, or something more creative, these tips will help you master sewing with denim. Let’s get in!
1. Choose the Right Needle for Denim
One of the first things to consider when sewing with denim is your needle choice. Denim is a thick fabric, so you’ll need a needle that’s up to the task. A denim needle, often labeled as “jeans needle,” is designed specifically for this purpose. These needles are strong and sharp, making them perfect for penetrating thick layers of denim without breaking.
2. Use a Strong Thread
Denim demands a strong thread to hold your seams together. Regular thread might not be durable enough, so it’s best to use heavy-duty or topstitching thread when sewing with denim. This type of thread is thicker and can withstand the stress that denim garments often endure. Be sure to adjust your sewing machine’s tension accordingly when using heavier threads.
3. Pre-wash Your Denim Fabric
Before you start sewing with denim, it’s important to pre-wash your fabric. Denim tends to shrink, and you don’t want your finished project to end up smaller than you planned. Washing the fabric beforehand also helps to soften it, making it easier to work with. If your denim is especially stiff, consider washing it twice to ensure it’s as manageable as possible.
4. Press Seams Properly
Denim seams can be bulky, so pressing them properly is crucial for a polished finish. After stitching your seams, press them flat using a hot iron. For especially thick seams, use a clapper or hammer them lightly to reduce bulk. Pressing as you go will ensure that your project looks professional and that the seams lie flat.
5. Use the Right Stitch Length
When sewing with denim, it’s best to use a longer stitch length. A stitch length of around 3.0 to 3.5 mm is ideal for denim, as it allows the needle to move through the fabric more easily and reduces the risk of puckering. A shorter stitch can cause the fabric to bunch up, which is something you definitely want to avoid when working with thick materials like denim.
6. Consider Topstitching
Topstitching is not only functional but also adds a decorative element to your denim projects. It reinforces seams and edges, making them more durable. When topstitching, use a contrasting heavy-duty thread to give your denim a classic, finished look. Remember to adjust your machine’s settings to accommodate the thicker thread and to ensure even, consistent stitching.
7. Handle Bulk Carefully
Dealing with bulk is one of the biggest challenges when sewing with denim. Areas where seams intersect can be particularly thick, making them difficult to sew through. To manage bulk, trim seam allowances wherever possible and use a hump jumper or a piece of folded fabric to level the presser foot when sewing over thick sections. This simple trick helps the machine glide over the bulky areas more smoothly.
8. Reinforce High-Stress Areas
Denim garments often experience a lot of wear and tear, especially in areas like pockets, hems, and belt loops. To ensure these areas hold up over time, reinforce them with bar tacks or extra stitching. Adding a few extra stitches in these high-stress areas will keep your denim projects durable and long-lasting.
9. Use a Walking Foot
A walking foot can be a game changer when sewing with denim. This foot helps feed the fabric evenly through the machine, reducing the chances of shifting and puckering. It’s especially useful when sewing multiple layers of denim, as it keeps everything aligned and makes the sewing process smoother.
10. Test Before You Sew
Finally, always test your settings before you start sewing with denim. Use a scrap piece of denim to test your needle, thread, tension, and stitch length. This way, you can make any necessary adjustments before working on your actual project, ensuring that your machine is set up perfectly for the task.
Conclusion
Sewing with denim can be a rewarding experience when you know the right techniques. By using the appropriate tools, taking your time with preparation, and handling the fabric carefully, you can create beautiful and durable denim garments. Keep these tips in mind, and you’ll be well on your way to mastering the art of sewing with denim.
